The Mohawk Trail, 1960s

Gentlemen, this is Jack Douglas with a brief introduction to tonight's colorful armchair vacation. This is but a small part of one of the oldest and most famous trails in all America. Indeed, only the Oregon Trail is better known for this is the historic Mohawk Trail, and we'll journey its byways on tonight's armchair vacation. You stand on the bank of the beautiful Connecticut River near the town of Greenfield, Massachusetts, and you hear nothing but the sweet sound of birds in the flow of water. You tell yourself that surely this must be the most peaceful spot in the entire state. Well, don't let the peace and quiet fool you, for this is historic ground, the eastern beginning of the Mohawk Trail. For countless years, thousands of Indians, fur traders, and pioneers wore a path alongside these streams and through the deep woods of this territory. And where the Miller's River flows into the waters of the Connecticut, you'll find the French King Bridge. Towering over the river 139 ft, it derives its name from an historic rock that was used as a landmark by French soldiers in 1674. They named the rock for their king, Louisie X 15th. Over the years, it has withstood floods, ice flows, and log jams, a reminder of history along this part of the Mohawk Trail. Standing in a heavily wooded area between Greenfield and the little town of Turner's Falls is the Poet's Seat Tower. The climb to the top is a long one, but when you've caught your breath, the view of the Deerfield Valley below makes it all worthwhile. We found the town of Greenfield a charming one. Today, it's a modern community of homes and schools. Still, it retains the look of the early days that draws visitors back year after year. We moved on from Greenfield to that place along the banks of the Deerfield River where the Mohawk Indian Bridge spans the trail used four centuries by the Mohawks in their hunting foray and fierce tribal warfare with their enemies, the New England Indians. Here we Mr. Fred Larabe and his son John who recently moved to Old Deerfield and who were spending the afternoon hunting for Indian relics. In this land of the Mohawk, it doesn't take long to find artifacts. Here's a stone head from an Indian tomahawk. The kind of discovery that excites the imagination, no matter how sophisticated we may be. And look there. Fred points upstream to the spot where historians believe the Mohawk Trail may have started, the point where the Mohawks sported the river. We're told that there are many collectors of Indian relics along these trails. And it's good to know that there are still places in America where you can search for and actually find remnants of the American Indians fascinating history. Well, the woods are quiet now, but along these same footpaths came the Mohawks, the Alganquins, the Moheagans, the Pacimatis, the Irakquay, and the Anandagas. [Music] The town of Old Deerfield is only a three-minute drive from Greenfield. It's a small village, one mile long, and almost every one of the houses dates back to the early days of American history. There are many places you'll want to see. The first town hall built in 1895 and the Fra House built in 1698. During the Revolutionary War, one of its guests was the infamous Benedict Arnold. The Asus Steins House, the first two-story brick house in Deerfield, built in 1789. The Hall Tavern built in Charlemont, Massachusetts in 176 and later moved to Deer. The Wilson house built in 1816 and moved five times inside the village served partly as a printing shop and also a wagon makaker's barn. In 1698, this was considered the most impressive house in the village. In Memorial Hall, you'll find much that tells a story of old Deerfield and the courageous people who lived here. This is a model of the house we saw a moment ago. The most impressive house in the village. It's called Indian House. And this hatchet and the hole in a door tell a story of terrible violence. On the morning of February 29, 1704, Indians attacked the village. A whirling tomahawk splintered the door. A gun was thrust through the hole and a mistress of the house, Mrs. John Sheldon, fell under the Indians wild shooting. It was this man Orte D Ruvil who was in command of the French troops and waring Indians during the attack on Deerfield. Half of the villagers were killed or captured. French commander took 112 Deerfield prisoners on a 300mile forced march to Canada. Here in a quiet tree-shaded cemetery, they lie buried beneath the protection of this monument. 48 men, women, and children who died on that terrible morning in 1704. You'll find this flag still flying in Old Deerfield. They call it the Liberty Pole, and it was first raised July 29, 1774 by patriots who wanted freedom from the British. Heading west along the Mohawk Trail, we pass through the covered bridge near the hamlet of Shelburn Falls. And I'll tell you something, I've never seen a greener, more peaceful countryside than this. And if you're attracted by the quiet charm of New England, then you've come to the right place. [Music] Shelburn Falls was settled in 1756, and anyone in town can tell you where this lovely bridge is located. They call it the Bridge of Flowers, and it sends a graceful span of greenery and color 400 ft across the waters of the Deerfield River. And whether you're going fishing or just passing through, you won't see a site like this for a long time to come. At Mohawk Park, just west of Charlemont, Massachusetts, you'll find this Indian wishing well. The well and names of various tribes inscribed on the plaques are dedicated to fraternity and the principles of American liberty. And nearby is this statue called Hail to the Sunrise, memorializing all the thousands of Mohawk men, women, children who once called these woods and rivers home. And you can't help wondering what it must have been like to walk these trails, to hunt here, to fish the streams, to know these woods as your own. Well, these pleasant acres no longer echo the sound of tomtoms. But forget the past for a moment and just try your luck with a rod and re. And if you're a picture snapper, let me tell you something. You won't find a prettier town square than this one in Adams, Massachusetts. Not if you searched all through the Birkshire Hills. On the highest peak in the Birkers is the Mount Greylock War Memorial, dedicated by the state in recognition of the loyalty and sacrifice of Massachusetts sons and daughters. This is the view from the war memorial. The towns of Adams and North Adams looking like scale models just below. [Music] But there's nothing miniature about this. This is Lake Ponttouck between the towns of Pittsfield and North Adams. And whether your pleasure is sailing or paddling your own canoe, you're sure to find it here at a reasonable cost. And if you're on a strict budget, just grab the nearest log. You'll have just as much fun as the big spenders. And listen, don't leave old phto at home when you vacation here. Pets are first class citizens in old New England. Moving westward along the old Mohawk Trail, we stop briefly at the city of Williamstown, founded in 1749 and called the village beautiful. The Williams College campus is one of the most attractive we've seen in the New England states. And by the banks of the Green River, you'll see the Haystack Monument dedicated to five students who took shelter beside a haststack during a summer storm in 1806. They sat and talked and all five decided to spend their lives serving other people through the church. This decision started the American foreign mission movement. On the east bank of the Hudson, opposite Albany, you'll find Fort Cro. Here on the curb of this well, a British army surgeon named Shuckberg sat while he composed the verses to a tune we've all sung many times, Yankee Doodle. Fort Calo was once the manor house of a wealthy Dutch family. And in the living room, you can still see an old loophole used by the defenders of the house to cradle a rifle when the fort was under attack. The house is furnished in the authentic period of 17th century Dutch decor. Over the living room mantle hangs this portrait of one of the grand ladies of the time, Mrs. Hrik Van Renolar. Standing on a hill overlooking the Mohawk River near Skenctity is the campus of Union College. The school is called the mother of fraternities and one of its most illustrious students, John Howard Payne, class of 1810, wrote the sad, sweet classic of nostalgia, Home, Sweet Home. If you love flowers, and I think most of us do, be sure to take a leisurely stroll through Jackson's Gardens on the campus of Union College. You'll discover 27 acres of sunken gardens, magnificent trees, and splashes of color that make the walk well worthwhile. Drive due south from the town of Fulton, New York, for about 23 mi, and you can visit the famous How Caverns. Lack of time forced us to bypass this great attraction, but I hope you'll make the time on your Mohawk Trail vacation. We move westward again, still following the legendary trail. And as we pass this clear, cool stream, we think for a moment about this big country, this America that is growing so fast. The great cities of steel and glass, the endless concrete highways, fine. Yet, we're grateful that there are still quiet spots like this along the bed of a creek where nature is as she was intended to be, unspoiled and serene, along the Mo. There are many reasons for coming here to this charming city of treeline streets. At first glance, you might think this was a part of Holland. Well, the colors in the tulips at least are just as beautiful as any in Holland. Brilliant red orange and ps and deep wine that must be seen to be appreciated. Believe it or not, this is the old county jail and the sign says no visitors Sundays, holidays, or nights. But it's open Tuesday through Friday and so is Coopertown's Baseball Hall of Fame. This building here, if you tire of walking, you might try this. Pick a Dilly Square in London. That's where you'd expect to find it, but it's right here in Coopertown, and it'll take you to the Woodland Museum. Once inside, you'll find a whole series of diaramas depicting scenes from the Deer Slayer, James Fenomore Cooper's classic novel of life in the Lake Country in the early 1800s. You can take a ride on an old-fashioned horsedrawn trolley car or go whizzing down the track at 15 m an hour in a narrow gauge steam train and other diaramas depicting the entire dramatic story of the early days of New York's settlement by the white man. In a quiet glade, the statue of James Fenomore Cooper contemplates the green fields and woods he loved so much. The immortal novelist was the youngest son of William Cooper, who first explored this territory in 1785 and founded a year later the small village that bears his name, Cooper's Town. Today we can visit Fenomore House, this beautiful building built in the Georgian tradition and step back into a time of elegant country homes and gracious living. Among the exhibits are these busts of three famous Americans, Adams, Jefferson, James Madison. Cast from plaster life masks, the bronze pieces were the work of John Brower, a sculptor from New York City who devoted many years to taking masks of famous living persons. Dolly Madison, for example, hoping to establish a national gallery with his work. And this is the actual life mask of John Adams. And this painting in Fenomore House is an excellent example of American folk art. It's called One Chew You Off and was painted in 1807. This one is called simply Georgie. Folk art of this kind was produced mainly by painters who had learned their craft as decorators or sign painters or in a brief apprenticeship with a trained artist. The work is lively but uncomplicated, presenting a charming picture of early American life. Another good reason for stopping at Coopertown is the Farmers Museum, a collection of 16 buildings, scores of farm implements, and a staff of dedicated people, all devoted to the job of recreating a rural community of the type that existed between 1783 and 1840. These are not just silent, musty, deserted buildings. On the contrary, in most of them, you can see people working at their trade, whether it be as a printer in this building or selling dry goods at the country store. Here's a familiar figure of yesterday. And have you ever stood outside the door of a blacksmith's shop and heard that wonderful clang of hammer on steel? About four years ago, I had a lot of shoes on the floor. A lady came in with a bunch of boys and girls, and she picked up shoes and she took them shoes and honed. Every time she hit one, if she liked it, she put on the boy's fingers. If she didn't like it, she threw it on the floor. And that's the way she kept it doing until she got her eight shoes, turned to her, and then as she got her eight shoes, I give her another punch. and she played back and forth on the shoes the bells of St. Mary and it was just as nice. You stood outdoors you wouldn't know what the horseshoes are playing. You wouldn't know what kind of music it was. And now let me show you [Applause] [Music] at the homestead barn. They demonstrate how they used to hook up oxen when it was time to take a load of corn to market. Slow to be sure, but at least one never had to worry about the gas and oil bill. We've been saving the best for the last. The house of tantalizing aromomas. The lady of the house is making gingerbread in the real old-fashioned American way. I was raised in New England and this really takes me back. You'll notice that she isn't using any modern appliances, just a strong arm, a lot of patience, and the heat of an old Dutch oven. [Music] Well, just a few minutes later, gingerbread all grandma's recipe is ready to be served. And in my time, this was enough for one serving. that little old gingerbread eater. Me. [Music] Heading northwest. Now, we're returning to the Mohawk Trail. And here between Coopertown and Gordonville, the Mohawk River hugs the roadway, reminding us again of the matchless beauty to be found here along the streams and in the woods of New York State. And you know, whenever anyone says New York, we think instinctively of the big city, rarely of this lovely green countryside. At Jordanville, you're in for a surprise. Suddenly, you see it and it looks like a picture postcard from Russia. Well, it's the Holy Trinity Monastery, a Russian Greek Orthodox church set in rolling hills and surrounded by lilock bushes. The architecture is startling. The attire of the brothers is different. But then this is America, the land that was founded by people who chose to be different. [Music] Halfway between the cities of Udica and Rome is one of the most sacred battlefields of the American Revolution. British troops and Indians ambushed the Trian County militia as they were marching to relieve American troops at Fort Stanwick. On that August day in 1777, 200 American patriots died on this ground, but their courage and determination resulted eventually in the British suffering a decisive defeat. This stone monument was erected by the grateful citizens of the Mohawk Valley whose farms and homes had been saved. Inside the museum, the dramatic story is recreated. This figure is the Mohawk chief Joseph Brandt, who fought on the side of the British. General Nicholas Herkimer, hero of the Battle of Ariskani, was mortally wounded, but fought on until the British turned and fled the battlefield. His men carried him on a litter for 40 miles to his home. And for 10 days, he resisted the hand of death. [Music] At Rome, New York, the Delta Dam rises 105 ft above the bed of the Mohawk River and stretches 1,000 ft long to back up the water, forming Delta Lake. Take a summer's day, add a few youngsters, and well, you know the rest. If there is a swimming hole within 10 miles, they'll find it. In this case, the crystal waters of the Mohawk. But we didn't come to Rome for a swim. We were looking for a restaurant and resort that's rated as one of the finest in the state. And here it is. They call it the beaches. Set in the midst of 52 acres of beach tree groves. You'll find it on the Turan Road just a short drive from town. Everything about this beautiful restaurant is on the Roman side. The first thing we noticed was the statue of a wolf in the center of the drive. It was a gift to the people of New York from the people of Italy, a symbol of their Rome, the eternal city. Inside we find a group of people who seem hypnotized by the goodies on the table. All this, however, is merely the antipasto smorggas board. Just the beginning of a Roman forum dinner. Even the menu looks like a piece of parchment from Caesar's time. The beaches, it's a must on your trip of the Mohawk Trail. Moving west again, we come to Lake Onita at sunset. One of the largest lakes in upper New York State, it's a fisherman's favorite. Then at the town of Owego on the shores of Lake Ontario, we paused to retrace our steps along the Mohawk Trail in New York State. Starting at the Hudson River, we stopped in Albany, then continued on westward past Udica and Rome. And finally, we have reached Oswego and the location of Fort Ontario, the last stop on the Mohawk Trail. Mr. Wallace, Workmaster, curator of Fort Ontario, told us its history. Welcome to Fort Ontario, Jack, the westernmost terminus of the Mohawk Trail. Albany fur traders came to the mouth of the Asiggo River in 1722 to establish a fur trading post near the western shore. The Albany traders began to pressure for the erection of a fortification. And in 1727, the first FortGo, Fort asgo, was built. The first fort Ontario was built in 1755 to supplement the defenses here. The Marquita Mont captured and destroyed the first Fort Ontario along with Fort Asiggo and a third fort, Fort George. In the summer of 1756, the British returned three years later and built the second Fort Ontario, a much larger, more complicated sort of fortification which also was supplied through the Mohawk, Onidita, and Asiggo route. The second Fort Ontario is used from the French and Indian War to the end of the war of 1812. Altogether, this spot has had five battles and 13 military campaigns. long and exciting history. Oswego's Fort Ontario has served under the colors of the British crown, the oak leaf of the French colonial flag, the 15 stars and stripes of the Americans in 1796, and the 36 stars of the USA during the restoration of the third Fort Ontario. The ideal of a living museum of America's military heritage is carried out at Fort Ontario where we can see soldiers who are uniformed, drilled, and equipped as a regular army garrison of the 1860s. They're here from July 1st through Labor Day at historic Fort Ontario, one of the most interesting places of the many attractions on the Mohawk Trail.