SOLE OF COMFOR

Year Published: 1940s

Format: 16mm

Description: This color, British educational film "Sole of Comfort" is about making a sole for a shoe. It was made on behalf of the British Leather Publicity Council and with the help of the British Leather Manufacturers' Research Association. No copyright but this film is circa the late 1940s or very early 1950s. Opening: a boot with a spur, close on an alligator, lizard, snake, deer, salamander, bull in a field. Leather is examined and then placed in a special solution. The hide of leather is dunked into a milky white solution for tanning. The hide is fed into a machine where some of it is scraped off. All fleshy tissue is pulled off in a second machine. The hide is hammered with a special hammer that leaves a mark. The hide is scrapped and then placed into a tanning liquid (:06-3:00). The racks are raised and the hides are raised out of the liquid. The hides are then hit and scrapped with a pole. Tanning machine for the hide. The hide is carried by a machine while hung. It is sent into another machine which will smooth it. It is oiled and then dried, rolled under heavy pressure to make it more compact. A heavier material is done and ready to be used as leather. Stacks of the finished leather are carried off. Microscope of the fibers in the leather (3:01-5:52). All types of leather slide past the screen. All colors and sizes. The leather is with a shoe manufacturer. He places the shoe leather in a machine. Soles for shoes are in piles. A machine trims the sole to be a certain shape to fit a certain shoe. The shoe is placed into two more machines. The leather and shoe are bent and processed (5:53-8:14). A finished shoe is taken from a machine. The shoe worker places another shoe into a machine and gets it ready. Stitching the sole of the shoe on a machine. The beveling machine shapes the edge and colors the shoe. A man sands down any rough shoe edges (8:15-9:34). A woman shoe sales person shows shoes to a woman and her daughter. A little girl walks through a muddy road. Hands wash down the shoes, cleaning them of mud. Leather sole in water. A clear shoe with a leather sole in water. The sole of a shoe (9:35-11:32). A man stitches a shoe's sole. He then sharpens his knife on a strop. He cuts some of the excess stitching off. Tears at the shoe bottom with a knife (11:33-13:19). The leather bottom is placed onto the shoe. The shoe is complete. Finished pairs of shoes are shown. Many different types of shoes are shown from flats to heels. Step machine has the shoe being tried out by stepping down repeatedly to test it. A man on duty steps hard on his shoes. Marching band marches, a man on a horse. Legs step hard on their shoes. Shoes outside in the woods. A couple look at a map and then walk off into the woods. Lots of feet touching the ground, walking, dancing, running, playing cricket, riding a dirtbike, dancing, soccer, cricket (13:20-16:29). At 14;41, a special Rube Goldberg machine to test shoes is shown that literally is an endless treadmill. End credits (16:30-16:40).

Complete Record:

Transcription

it is always the leather required for sing boots and shoes must be tough durable and extremely flexible it comes from tough and muscular animals like the ox it weathers extremes of climate protected by a thick and sturdy hide on arrival at the Tannery the hides are inspected before undergoing the first of the process transform them into leather take about 12 weeks and which start with lming in the lme yard the hides are immersed in a specially prepared solution and allowed to soak for several days this serves to loosen the roots of the hair and to to rehydrate the hide which also prepares the fibers to receive the tan the hides are fed into a machine in which the bulk of the hair is scraped away from the outer surface the grain side all fleshy tissues which still cling to the inner surface of the skin are now cleared away in a second machine on the rounding tables the belly leaving the butt from which the best quality cell leather is obtained qual this point the Hammerhead is indented with a rounders Mark and from now on the hides can always be identified the hide is now in a condition for a further careful cleansing called scudding in which it is draped over a specially curved bench known throughout the industry as the beam a term which has been passed down through the Centuries by these skilled crafts the tanning liquids which are called Liquors in which the hides are submerged have a vegetable origin and come from many corners of the earth Mimosa from South Africa mirum from India and the wood of the rare red Keo tree from the jungles of South America the hides are first dipped into a weak tanning liquid the racks are raised so that they may be kept clear of one another to make certain that the tan is free to work on all surfaces uniformly a vital part of the operations is to ensure that the hide is uniformly Ted this is achieved by first immersing the hides in Weak Liquors from which they are passed to others more active and concentrated tanning is basically a method of preserving and serves to enrich and perpetuate the natural properties of the animal hides by skillful variation of the Tanner's art high and compact after the first application of oil the leather is hung to dry and when semi dry it is set out a cylinder with blunt blades being used to give it a smooth surface a second oiling and then after drying again the leather is rolled under high pressure causing the fiber structure to become more compact harder wearing and water resistant a final drying at controlled temperatures and a firm tight Bend of leather ideal for cell material crowns the Tanner's endeavors constant research is conducted on leather to ensure its Fitness for the job it is intended to do leather is a fibrous material and under the microscope the fiber suddenly spring into existence each fiber is made up of tens of thousands of fibrils each finer than a hair woven by Nature into a strong intricate Network throughout the thickness of the Leather So Advanced is modern tanning technique that the natural directions of the fibers can be altered at will the better to fit the finished leather for the one specific task for which it may be required leather in its infinite variety satisfies every need fine snakes skin and rare Leathers for exotic shoes leather for specialist Footwear or for everyday walking shoes there are Leathers of various strengths and durability not least of them the leather from which shoe cells are manufactured after careful inspection and grading the leather is passed on to the shoe manufacturer or repairer skillful cutting reduces the amount of wastage and so keeps down costs here a finely adjusted machine trims the sole down to the exact shape ready for attachment to the shoes the art of the designer is translated into the intricate knife which cuts out the upper now shaped to a lust the shoe upper is attached to the inner sole the top sole can be attached to the uppers by various methods each having special advantages for different types of shoe the cement process of attachment is commonly used for ladies light fashioned Footwear such as casuals and long so CT shoes the sole is prepared with a coating of adhesive solution and it is firmly fixed under pressure to the insole and upper of the shoe stitching the so to the shoe is the traditional method still widely used a channel is cut near the edge of the so and the lip of the channel is raised the the stitches are firmly embedded inside the base of the channel the channel lip is closed and rubbed down protecting and concealing the line of stitches this beveling machine shapes the sole Edge and at the same time colors it before it is passed on to the polisher for finishing the importance of properly fitted all leather shoes cannot be too strong ly emphasized they are particularly essential for The Growing Child due to the unique fibrous nature of leather it can be said in a sense to breathe that means that Vapors are free to pass out from inside the shoe vitally important to foot Health the perspiration present when a healthy child is running and playing normally is able to evaporate only leather permits the feet to breathe in this healthy fashion there is something irresistible about a muddy road and it is as well to know that good leather shoes keep the feet warm and dry although Vapors can pass through leather liquids are kept out just as the original hides protected the animal against the elements leather will repay a little care with faithful service muddy shoes should never be left for long mud should be carefully washed off and all traces removed after washing the shoes should be dried in a current of air and never put close to hot pipes or the fire in the laboratory this machine reproduces the flexing action of the foot while walking measuring the resistance of the leather to penetration by water a rigid test of the waterproof property of the materials this plastic boot filled with water proves that the leather so does not allow the water to penetrate or in this case to seep out at the same time the bubbles indicate how air can pass through the leather thus contributing to foot Health leather soles not only give protection to the feet on rough surfaces they also provide insulation against heat and coold leather when tested on Ice proves to have a higher temperature and against hot Pavements the considerable volume of stationary air between the fibral makes leather a good ins these unique properties of leather have have to be fully understood in the making of a shoe perhaps we can best appreciate the fine qualities of Leather by watching the Craftsman at work work well tanned exquisitely finished here is an ancient skill the Fulfillment of an art as he waxes his threads and sews on the welt in Readiness for the soul his every movement reveals a complete understanding and familiarity with his materials his tools and with his craft and the age-old terms are still used for his work like honing boning and Lasting he handles the leather with affection which he could feel only for some natural genuine material with which he and his fathers before him have worked for generation [Music] e the final stage of manufacturer is the fixing of the so the leather Springs in the hand flexed backwards and forwards much as it will do countless times throughout its existence it is Supple yet strong protecting yet not restricting the [Music] movement the completed shoe is a pleasure to handle and examine for the well-made shoe is an object of real satisfaction when we designed for heavy walking over the countryside B in the town we modeled for child or adult but perhaps an ESP special pleasure is taken in the shape and line of ladyes shoes for here the artist May permit himself a wider scope colored and Imagination contribute to elegance and to an attractive feminine Style this highly scientific treadmill designed and built by the shoe industry research technologists goes round and round testing the various methods of shoe making strange steps which eat up the imaginary miles strange steps in the outer World also prove the value of leather the men on duty are still walking their beat still never giving a thought to the Footwear that does them such good service and that is as it should be there is no reason why we should worry about the physical properties of leather it is enough to say that leather assures foot health and comfort for in all things the great test is time and hard usage the uneven Country Lane and the more exacting surfaces once we have wandered from the Beaten Track the long miles which Youth and High Spirits are eager to take in their stride the untrodden ways we are ready for them all for well shod we are prepared for all trials for whatever the miles may have in store the countryside or the busy street on business bound or pleasurebent in every Walk of Life leather Footwear plays its vital part protecting us supporting us sustaining and assisting us leather shoes and leather boots for every purpose keeping our feet fit and comfortable willingly accepting the incredible stress and strain our active lives impose in leather Nature has endowed man with a unique material of matchless Merit the leather strong and subtle that flexes with every movement leather that breathes like a second skin Stout sturdy leather that serves us faithfully and well there's nothing like leather the so the


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