Sewing Simple Seams (1947, sound)

[Music] thank you simple seams are the basis of all good sewing different seams are used according to the type of garment and the material used plane seam edges paint ing is one of the simplest and most commonly used finishes for firm wool silk and cotton Fabrics the first step in making the simple seam is to place the right sides of the two pieces of Muriel together be sure both edges are even before pinning pins are placed at right angles to the edges this makes it possible to baste over them without danger of pricking your fingers on the pins measure the seam width allowing 3 8 to 1 half inch then baste the seam a single thread should always be used in basting the knot is placed a little to one side of the line of stitching to prevent the machine needle from passing through it be sure the work is kept flat do not crush it as you baste stitching on the machine is done using the Inside Edge of the presser foot as a guide it should follow beside the basting in a straight line after stitching remove the basting keep the work smooth and flat to Avid wrinkling and tearing holes in the material pink the seam edges together with pinking shears cutting away just as little of the material as possible now the pink dead seam is ready for pressing press the edges together on the wrong side of the material then turn it over and press on the right side making sure that there are no folds on the right side a more common practice is to press the edges open the choice is determined but the type and thickness of material location of the seam in the Garment or by individual preference plain seam edges overcast overcast edges are necessary on materials which Ravel readily such as woolens and other Loosely woven fabrics again the simple seam is made by placing the right sides of the material together keeping the edges even and stitching in a straight line along the basting the seam is pressed open as before an electric steam iron may be used to Advantage in pressing woolens of all types overcast each Edge separately working from left to right be careful not to pull the thread too tight as the seam will gather and the edges roll under finish press the seam on both the right and wrong sides after pressing the seam should lie flat and smooth edges may be overcast together particularly on armholes Yokes or other points of design where the seam edges naturally fall together plane seam edges stitched the stitched Edge is a popular seam finish for silk rayon or dress weight woolens it is used extensively and fine ready to wear First Press a simple seam open press both sides as usual then turn under about 1 8 of an inch of each Edge and crease with the fingers after finger pressing stitch on the machine close to the folded Edge making sure that the body of the material is pushed to one side where it won't interfere with stitching the seam finish press the seam on both the wrong and right sides careful pressing is the finishing touch to good Tailoring plane seam edges bound seam tape or silk bias is used on seams in tailored garments especially unlined coats and jackets baste the folded tape to the raw edge of the seam the tape is folded with one side slightly wider than the other the wide side of the tape should be placed on the underneath side of the seam to ensure catching it when stitching on the machine puckering may result if the tape is not applied correctly tape should be kept smooth but not drawn tightly over the seam after basting the tape is stitched on the machine with the top side up Stitch along the side of the basting thread this simplifies removing the basting remove the bastings as before keeping the material smooth and flat finish press the seam on both sides either a regular electric iron or an electric steam iron may be used on Woolen Fabrics when a regular iron is used a dampened pressing cloth must be placed over the material to avoid shining or scorching edges are often bound together to avoid bulkiness around armholes yolks and seams at the waistline with the edges together baste the tape to the edges of the seam stitch on the edge of the tape with the narrow side up clip the threads and remove the bastings before pressing finish press on the wrong side using a pressing cloth plain seam catch stitched the cat stitched seam is used on heavy materials where seams tend to roll and will not stay pressed flat to the Garment in making the catch Stitch catch the needle in a few threads of fabric just beyond the seam and then in the seam point the needle to your left as you progress to the right the stitches should not show on the right side of the material press carefully on both sides so that the seam will not show on the right side plain seam top stitched top stitching is used to strengthen seams and for decorative and design purposes first paint the edges of a plain seam then open the material and finger press Stitch the desired width from the fold using the presser foot as a guide and so your ability to make well-tailored clothes close with that finished professional appearance depends upon how well you master one of the most important fundamentals of sewing the simple seam [Music] thank you