Sewing: Pattern Interpretation (sound)

everything [Music] today's styles are interpreted by means of the commercial pattern the four in general use today are McCall simplicity Broderick and Vogue to be able to use patterns wisely one must thoroughly understand the markings for each Mark or symbol conveys an important rule which if followed Faithfully will help you avoid confusion and mistakes and pattern markings may be confusing at first what does the printed arrow mean what are the lines of preparations printed notches and numbers both large and small perforations why for the answers which will help you in interpreting a pattern always refer to the directions and close with the pattern select the layout according to the width of your material and the parts of the pattern you intend to use Mark the layout you've chosen so you may refer to it easily and then locate the main pattern markings straight of the fabric is indicated on buttering patterns by a series of large perforations locating the straight of the fabric marks is very important if the pattern is to be used correctly accurate measurements may be made from the straight of the fabric preparations to the Selvage ensuring True Grain of the material in the cut out parts Vogue patterns indicate straight of the material by a line of round medium-sized preparations a double-ended arrow is used by simplicity measurements may be made from each end of The Arrow the McCall pattern also employs the double-ended printed Arrow to indicate straight of the material to locate the edge of the pattern to be placed on the fold of the material look on the Butterick pattern for this group of three medium-sized preparations you'll find two large perforations marking the edge to be placed on the fold in Vogue patterns and in the Simplicity pattern a printed label showing the line to be placed on the fold McCall patterns employ the same type of marking seam lines are indicated on the unprinted patterns such as buttery and Vogue by a line of small perforations along the edges to be seamed seam allowances may vary with the pattern and with the location on the pattern seam lines in the printed pattern such as Simplicity and Macaws are shown as broken lines inside the cutting lines of the pattern be sure not to confuse the seam line with the cutting line location of the center Front marking is an important step in interpreting the pattern a line of large perforations indicates Center front in buttric designs Vogue patterns also use large perforations for this Purpose Center front and straight of the fabric markings are identical in these particular patterns center Front is pointed out by a printed label in simplicity patterns and also in the McCall darts are indicated on the unprinted patterns by converging lines of perforations medium-sized perforations are used in Butterick patterns small perforations show darts in Vogue patterns darts are indicated by printed solid lines in the Simplicity pattern and by printed broken lines in the McCall pattern these are all clearly labeled additional markings such as buttonholes are found in the standard patterns the butter rake indicates buttonholes by medium-sized perforations placed at the ends of the Slash Square preparations are used to Mark buttonholes in Vogue patterns printed lines show buttonholes in simplicity patterns they are also printed marks in the McCall pattern in preparing to cut out your pattern the pattern should be pinned securely to the material place the pins at close intervals to prevent the pattern from slipping on the material pins should be put in on the seam line perpendicular to the edge you must cut around the edges of the unprinted pattern not into the pattern itself cut close to the edge and keep the work flat on the table notches should be cut away from the pattern rather than torted cutting notches into the pattern may weaken the seam into which The Notches are cut when using the printed pattern The Cutting is done along the printed cutting line rather than around the outside edge again just as in the unprinted pattern notches should be cut away from a pattern rather than into it notches have a real purpose in locating the matching parts of the Garment and should not be disregarded in this instance double instead of single notches are used to show the joining positions of two parts printed numbers also are matched in joining another locating Mark is the printed dot on the sleeve cap matching the shoulder seam a perforation is used on unprinted patterns special markings such as those showing Gathering are often used The Gather is made between the arrow points Pockets may be shown as printed outlines or as a series of perforations on unprinted patterns to transfer pattern markings to your material tailor tacking is very useful tailor tacking is done with a double thread taking two small stitches through each Mark and through both thicknesses of material leave a loop of about one inch between the first and second stitches in each mark snip the thread connecting the Taylor tack stitches remove the pins and separate the material as far as the loops will allow then cut the threads now both thicknesses of material are clearly marked on both sides and so with the markings and symbols of your pattern clearly in mind you may complete the job of cutting out using your skill as a seamstress in recreating the craftsmanship of the master designer [Music]