ROME THE ETERNAL CITY

Today, as in the time of Julius Caesar, great interest centers upon Rome. Here on the banks of the Tiber stands the capital of the ancient Roman Empire with a longer record of continuous cultural and religious importance than any other city. In the old Campus Martius stands the bridge and castle of Saint Angelo, built by Hadrian before the time of Christ as a tomb for himself and his successors. Later it became the medieval citadel of Rome. Many age-old relics of the ancient city in days of Roman power are still a part of the modern city's life, where all the authority of Caesar is sometimes centered in a traffic cop. Like traffic cops the world over, he is conscious of his importance. The ancient clock towers of Trinita dei Monti, headquarters of the Trinitarian order of monks, look down upon one of the many public squares where there are always vendors of flowers or fruit. From every little Italian farm for miles around come fruits and vegetables that are displayed to a people long aware of the value of the balanced diet. A surviving structure of the imperial city of the Caesars is the capital, high on one of the seven hills on which the city is built, guarded by the massive statue of Antonius Marcus Aurelius, emperor and philosopher who ruled until 180 AD. Here stood a forum for public assembly where justice was administered and actually a birthplace of modern democracy. The most celebrated was the Forum Romanum. The Colosseum, seen in the far distance, can rest on its laurels as one of the wonders of the amusement world. Nearby stands the well-proportioned Arch of Constantine, largely constructed of materials taken from previous arches. A narrow frieze, rudely carved in the band about its center, is an art relic of Constantine's day. The huge amphitheater could seat 50,000 people to witness sham battles, gladiator contests, or pagan rites. Today, the Christian people frequently assemble here where early martyrs gave their lives for their faith. They give witness to the enduring quality of faith while the barbaric Colosseum crumbles. More than a century ago, the Arch of Titus was restored. It commemorates the capture of Jerusalem, AD 70. In vivid contrast with the charm of ancient structures is the modern forum and stadium built within the last decade and embellished with heroic statues which gleam with the newness of recently sculptured snow-white marble. They represent early Roman athletes, no doubt to inspire the youth of modern Rome. Here athletic drills are a favorite spectacle when a thousand athletes go through a routine of exercises in perfect unison and provide a performance notable for its expert precision. But whether in modern Rome or in the atmosphere of pagans, the distant dome of Saint Peter's dominates the city. Here every morning for centuries, priests have offered the sacrifice of the mass in the chapel which is the tomb of the first pontiff, the Apostle Peter. All the splendors and treasures of the Vatican cannot match in grandeur the first cathedral of the world, beneath whose walls nearly all the popes of Rome lie entombed. For centuries, the Vatican has acquired priceless art and treasures and the pope's command of the talents of the greatest artists of each age has resulted in a collection of masterpieces unmatched elsewhere on Earth. The majestic beauty of the Basilica of Saint Peter's is completed by the splendid piazza which gives access to it. It is surrounded by colonnades erected in 1667 by Alexander the VII and surmounted by a balustrade on which are 140 statues. Only men of the oldest Roman aristocracy are eligible for membership in the pope's noble guard. The ancient edifice looks down upon new pilgrims every day, for here are drawn peoples of every faith from all over the Earth to be enriched spiritually and culturally by the influence of this consecrated place. On the first day of Holy Week and the last Sunday in Lent, vendors of palms on the Piazza di San Pietro supply the symbols of the day. Beyond the ancient walls of Saint John the Lateran stands a showplace of modern Rome. Italians are reminded of turbulent history in the imposing monument erected to Victor Emmanuel II, first king of Italy. He was responsible for the annexation of papal states and the unification of his kingdom. And though a devout Catholic, was excommunicated. The rift between the state and the Vatican remaining until recent years. Modern and ancient Rome everywhere blend harmoniously. The Pantheon, built by Hadrian, was consecrated as a Christian church in 609. It faces the Piazza del Popolo. A colorful touch characteristic of the streets of this city are the vendors of sweets with their gayly decorated donkeys. This is perhaps the origin of the good-humor man. The great fountain of Trevi, with its massive figures about the giant basin, is known to all travelers because of its legend. They say that to throw a coin in the water assures a return visit. Men who clean the fountain naturally keep the legend alive. Everywhere throughout the eternal city, landmarks of the past are on every hand. The suggestion is inescapable that if history really repeats itself, Rome can ignore all setbacks of the moment. In this area, formerly city slums, archaeological excavations have brought to light endless proofs of past glories. Approaching the Piazza della Repubblica, the Via Nazionale runs through the heart of the old city. One of many modern fountains stands in the center of the Piazza, fed by the same springs that once supplied the ancient city. Jets of sparkling water fall on beautiful naiads in a perpetual bath. A mighty Triton, Greek god of the sea, rides through the spray. Rome's broad avenues and boulevards are lined with buildings as impressive as those of any great world metropolis. The Via Veneto is the center of the city's social life with here and there the typical continental sidewalk cafe. All along the boulevard may be seen the finest and most imposing homes. Now the cloak of night falls upon the eternal city and Rome gains a new magnificence and dignity. Saint Peter's blazes in honor of a saint with a long record of continuous importance to all the world. Rome can suffer more than one decline and fall only to rise again.