Razor Shaping.

[Music] the [Music] the razor is as easy as any other method of hair shaping if you know what to expect of a razor type of shaping instrument you can be confident of excellent results you will find that a more thorough explanation of each action in this film is in the textbook on this particular subject to demonstrate the principles of Razor shaping two hairstyles will be created a volunteer from this audience which consists of beauticians and hair stylists will have her hair shaped for a swirl Arrangement there is no such thing as a universal cut if hair is shaped for a particular style the customer should be urged to keep that style otherwise she will not be completely satisfied with a hair shaping job if she wants another style reshaping is necessary the results of Razor shaping are identical with the results of shaping with scissors it is the knowhow acquired through intensive study and proper experience that makes for the skilled operator it is always necessary to determine hair texture before shaping this model's hair is of medium texture hair must be thoroughly dampened with hot water for razor shaping hot water softens the hair so the shaping action won't have to be forced while our model is having her hair rinsed let's learn the fine points of handling the razor it is important to look professional handle the razor easily and relaxed and you will be sure to inspire confidence in your Patron's attitude toward you hold razor in left hand like this and open it with the right hand thumb and index fingers will hold razor while other three fingers will support the handle thumb and index finger control turning of the razor in a rolling motion the comb is held in the left hand when you want to use the comb rest the razor between thumb and index finger and transfer comb to your right hand razor should be closed the same way it was open hold it in your left hand and push the blade down gently learn to handle your shaping instrument correctly like this and you'll Master its use quickly our model is back her hair has been rinsed with hot water by using hot water the razor action is smoother never Force the razor with heavy pressure now the model will turn to show the short slicing action which is used on the hair with the razor the slicing movement should never be more than 1 and A2 in long because the razor is very sharp and otherwise it will cut away too much hair remember when you shaped with the scissors you used a controlled stroke 3 or 4 in long if you used a long stroke like this with a razor you would defeat the proper purpose of shaping your customer's hair the result would be over thinned ends razors never make mistakes neither do scissors first the hair is separated the same way it is when you shape with scissors then the hair is spread with a comb for a view of length and condition holding of hair differs slightly for razor shaping hair is held a little more firmly between index finger and thumb for even length the layer is held straight across like this length is measured and then the hair is shortened with a controlled slicing movement watch closely as we pretend to shape another layer after hair is shortened all around it is usually necessary to thin it between roots and ends be sure not to thin the outer or top layer three steps are used on this layer because hair is of medium texture all of the thinning is done on both sides of the Strand now for the swirl Arrangement air is parted on the side from hairline to about the neckline in the finished style the part will be covered by curls in back 2/3 of the hair is drawn to the full side of the Cure bulk accumulates here therefore thinning is necessary the part is on the right side swirl will be arranged toward the left side curls will be placed on the right side with waves and curls on the left the swirl Arrangement should begin about 3 and 1/2 in back from the hairline layers are held on a 30° angle beginning at the top of the head in back and extending to the left side parting is done from right to left length will be reduced to 4 and 1/2 in for curls curls will stay in place better at that length Center back will be graduated from 4 and 1/2 to 7 in for the swirl Arrangement the top layer gradually becomes shorter as we reach the neckline proper standing position in this instance is on the left side for shaping hair for a swirl hair is separated from right to left side almost across the back first layer is separated measured and shaped length is shortened now thinning will be done later and now the second layer again hair is held on an angle remember a short 1 and 1/2 in stroke is applied to shorten the hair now the sides are shortened to a 6in even length the reason for a 6-in even length is to be able to brush or comb curls into waves the 6-in length is a fair length for brush waves after shaping is completed length must be rechecked because hair has tendency to slip especially in razor shaping large sections are picked up in rechecking next the hair is thin top layer is parted away because razor should never touch the outer surface of the hair or stubby ends will result thin on both sides of the layer of hair for a perfect blending of various lengths of hair three steps are used because hair texture is medium two steps are used on top and one on the underneath side of layer bulk interferes with styling so it must be removed by careful thinning now the top layer is combed toward left side thinning between roots and ends makes hair lie tailored to the head as it should this hair was shaped for a swirl and will be dressed in a style with swirled back and a balanced arrangement of waves and curls now a head of hair will be shaped for an updo here's a young lady who already wears an updo her hair isn't exactly lovely to look at perhaps her appearance can be improved upon if her hair is shaped for the style she is wearing evidently she is the cautious type anyway she's invested a lot of money in Combs and hair pins but still her updo lacks appeal remember before shaping for any style with any shaping instrument find out the texture and condition of the hair you are working with this hair is of medium texture if you don't know your Patron it's a good idea to let her comb through her hair to show you how she likes to wear it by the way there are women who say shape my hair but don't make it any shorter than it is here's a tip for women like this do a superior shaping job and they'll come back for more for shaping hair on the right side stand on the left side where shaping left sides stand on the right side in so for as you can see you revolve around the head as shaping continues toward the back the hair will be divided into about 20 layers that extend from hairline to Crown the divisions will resemble cuts of a pie they will be 1 in wide at hairline and narrower near Crown the length of the hair of course always depends on the style being planned shaping begins on right side in front so the standing position is at left rear index finger is held at point of Separation comb meets finger and layer is separated with fingers hair is spread with comb for a view of length and condition held between thumb and index finger on about a 30° Angle now layer is measured 9 in at hairline 8 in at Crown when you become familiar with the razor shaper you can speed up the job by shortening and thinning the hair at the same time like this notice the short stepping action applied to the layer to thin out excess bulk and the slicing motion used for reducing length notice also how razor is placed so it doesn't touch the outer layer if razor touches surface you would have a lot of short stubby ends on top let us shape one layer in the back measurement here is 10 in at neckline and 8 in at Crown to prevent the patron from becoming tired as a result of holding her head in one position for a long time we stop shaping at Center back and begin again at left front hairline shaping and thinning continues to Center back with experience proper shaping for any style can be done within 10 minutes now watch the action for now the length must be checked five large sections are picked up hair is measured and ends are even did you notice that very little length was removed yet enough bulk was removed so that hair will be much more easily managed notice how the hair responds to combing after proper shaping this is something like it our young lady looks like a different person the hair is correctly shaped so every strand remains in place no stubby ends protrude to Mar the beauty of the upswept line and look she doesn't use all the Combs and all the bobby pin she came in with as you well can see her hairstyle is perfect and should be perfect because Perfection can be expected when hair is shaped correctly whether with scissors or with razor and now for the first model whose hair was shaped for a flattering swirl these Styles should convince you that hair shaping is the most important service in your salon make it your business to improve and master every phase of hair shaping you'll reap profits you didn't know existed [Music]