Kimono (1955)

[music] [music] It is part of my story of Hanekosan to say that I have long admired the Ukioi paintings of olden times. These magnificent color prints portray the ancient art of Japan and they capture too the loveliness of Hanukkah. She and the beauty which is everywhere about her have filled my visits to Japan with a deep pleasure. But my story is about a robe. The beautiful robe these graceful maidens wear. The kimono. Woven from silk and patterns of long centuries of Japanese culture. The kimono has become the symbol of a gracious and comfortable mode of living. And that is what I like about Japan. In Tokyo, the capital city of Japan, the east and west [music] find a common agreement in the history of past and present. In this ageless city, as up to date as any in the world, the old is always witness to the new. And of all the things that are [music] today an evidence of old Japan, perhaps the most Japanese is the kimono. [music] Though not out of place in Japan's busy cities, its basic harmony blends best in a traditional setting as traditional and Japanese as Hanukkah's house. And this lovely person is my friend Hanukkah. Her kimono like her smile is express that is Japan. You know this is a very simple costume when you consider that it has basically only two parts. The kimono and the obi or sash worn about [music] the waist. But when you know what has gone into its design, centuries of thought and artistic effort, it becomes an interesting and intricate creation. In style and shape, kimonos are all about the same. But the Japanese women can do endless things with them until you have as much variety as the seasons of the year. In fact, spring, summer, fall, and winter are reflected in the patterns and materials used. And even more than that, a different [music] type of kimono is worn for the seasons. As long as the take off their shoes when they come into their houses, petitioned by paper screens and sliding paper doors, the most suitable dress. Hanakusan has been expecting a [music] visitor. a good answer and has come to discuss plans for a very important occasion. There is [music] much to talk about, but while they are coming into the house, let's leave Hanaco to her aunt for a moment and let's meet Hanukkah's mother. Here we may again observe the effective simplicity [music] found in Japanese homes. Hanaco serves welcome cups of tea. And while the three ladies are visiting, [music] we have an excellent opportunity to observe the differences in their kimonos. Hanukkah is in her early 20s and until she is married she will wear gay designs and brilliant colors. Her kimono has long sleeves which are a symbol of girlhood. Her aunt is 10 years older. The kimono she wears avoids the spirited color becoming to the unmarried woman. Large designs and stripes give way to a graceful contrast between the kimono and the olive green howore or coat. The howori is not an essential fit but very often [music] is effective in setting off the kimono. The lapels are held together by strings that do not meet in the middle as in western dress. The howi is usually worn in late autumn and winter as a sort of coat. The color harmony of the obi [music] and kimono is effective and in excellent taste. Hanekosan's aunt was a drumstyle obi called otiko. This is the type most often seen today. In her early 40s, Haneko's mother wears a more conservative kimono. There is a refinement and unity of colors in her costume not seen in [music] the other two. If Hanukkah's mother were to wear the dress of her daughter, she would be subject to ridicule. The kimonos here represent good taste and [music] selection in three age groups. Position in respect to social status and family is also reflected. These are the proprieties of dress and they are strictly [music] observed. Hanukasan is going to be married and I am told soon. When such important matters are in the wind, it is likely that this favorite aunt has [music] come to inspect the young lady's truso. Any girl in Japan would cherish Hanuko's wardrobe. This obi is made of silk and dyed in the yuzen style. Its length of more than 13 ft will easily do for the slim waist upon, but she will need lots of material for the bow. The obi keeps the costume in position, but it is equally indispensable as [music] part of its design and beauty. This is a kimono with a striped pattern to be worn only from spring to early summer, and it's very appropriate for street wear. A kimono is worn only during the season for which it was intended. If it is cold in summer, you do not put on a winter costume. You just hope the sun will shine. The visit of Hanukkah's aunt has taken a more positive turn. They have decided to spend the afternoon shopping for a bridal outfit. Many of the things Hanukkah will need may come from Mitsukoshi's near the Ginsa. But first, a visit to a silk store to select the kimono pattern. After being [music] carefully chosen, the samples will be sent to Kyoto where artisans will apply ancient skills to reproduce the patterns and colors for the kimono of Hanukkahan. While Hanukkah's wedding outfit is being prepared, let's take a little trip and observe the various uses of the kimono in other parts of Japan. We might first visit Oshima, where the islanders wear kimonos that are reminiscent of the manners and customs of the Hyon period [music] 12 centuries ago. Here is a kimono used for work and by working girls. It is called congauri. Named for the splashed white design on an indigo background. Woven of cotton yarns. It has natural beauty and is most suitable for daily wear. [music] Colorful, don't you think? The headdress is an important part of apparel to these ladies, too. Again, combining art with utility, [music] the cotton scarves protect the hair from wind and weather. Here, another kind of headdress demonstrates the amazing ability, not to mention a great deal of strength, of the women [music] islanders. Fresh water must be carried from low areas near the beach into the village. It is a task most strong men would be unable to perform and it accounts for the perfect postures of [music] these girls. You can try it with books or with pales if you like. To produce silk, you must raise silk worms. And the people of this mountain area are picking malbury leaves. The cocoons from which silk yarns are drawn need the leaves for food. Tradition and love for comfortable clothing, combined with a natural desire for creative expression, have produced work a day peculiar to no other people I have met. A unique kind of hat [music] and becoming. It is from such models as these that some of our modern dress designers get their inspiration for beach and leisure wear. The slacks are part of another kind of kimono designed to meet the particular needs of the people who labor in the fields. A cord to tuck up the sleeves is a tasuki. It looks much like a pair of red suspenders, doesn't it? Wherever I have traveled in this beautiful country, I have found the kimono to be an integrated and aesthetic part of each lovely setting. Japan to me has an ageless [music] quality. Along her seemingly endless seashores among her rocky islands and her sheltered [music] coves, I found the fishermen living ages in their picturesque villages. After there [music] has been a good catch, the leading fishermen of a village put on their ceremonial dress [music] and walk to a shrine there to pay homage to their patron deity. A kimono of special pattern is important for this ceremony. The design may be freely translated as a big catch. A bottle [music] of saki is offered on the altar of the shrine. The kimono now serves its traditional ceremonial purpose. It is worn with reverence and a sense of gratefulness. It lends color and spirit to an important occasion. I can only compare a summer in Kyoto with a lovely cherry blossom time which precedes it. Kyoto with its forested mountains, shrines, and palaces is considered the cultural capital of Japan. This is a summer kimono called Yucata. Made of an unlined cotton, the Yucata is a domestic garment for informal summer wear. It is just right after a cool bath. In the old days, the yucata was worn only after bathing like a neglige. But today, it has become the accepted summer kimono. Try it sometime when you are in Japan. The relaxed feeling you get is as comforting as can be. Fireworks in one's own garden on a summer evening is an old Japanese custom. They call it flower fire, and the children love it. Children's kimonos have vivid and imaginative patterns. Birds, flowers, butterflies, toys, and many others. There is nothing like the yucata for a casual summer's evening. This graceful dance is called Yucata of the Iris Pattern, named for this particular kimono. The dance is traditional and tells the story of the classical Japanese flower, the iris, and how it became the theme of this yucata. He only All [music] Kyoto is the home of the Yuzen Zomi. They [music] are the claws and fabrics dyed in the Yuzen style. And this is where the material for Hanukkah son's wedding kimono [music] is being dyed. The drying yard is a fascinating place of color. Like a festival, the banners [music] stream out gay in the wind. I have always thought of them as the flags of many nations fluttering out an international theme. After the material is dyed, the excess color is washed out in the stream of the Caramel River. Its crystal water rippling with silken strands. Reminds me of Hanukkah song. Beautiful. It is autumn now in Tokyo and the [music] chrysanthemum is queen of flowers. Hanukkah's home has become a place of activity. The [music] quiet surroundings are witness to the arrangements for the wedding. It is taking place today. And here embodying centuries of tradition is the result of all the time and creative effort an artist skill can produce the wedding kimono. Dressing the bride is something to watch. It is a process which takes time and much much patience. The undergarment is as colorful and dainty as most kimonos. It would make a petticoat green with envy. But its beauty is only for the enjoyment of Hanaco and her maiden waiting, her mother and her aunt. The accessories [music] are kept in a handy lacquered box. And if you watch closely, you will see how they are used. This is that once [music] ina-lifetime moment for Hanukkah when she will wear a bride's kimono. When she takes it off, she will be a married woman. The obi is the symbol of beauty [music] as it is expressed in Japanese womanhood. And who could express it better than Hanukkahan. The bow particularly is characteristic of all that is feminine in Japanese art and customs. >> [music] >> Hanakusan, you are beautiful. This is your moment. The greatest moment of your life. pleased. I think you should be. This is a great moment in your lives, too. Nothing has been forgotten, has it? Groomed to perfection. Thank you, Hanukkah son, for all that I have learned from you and the traditions and ways of your people as symbolized by this loveliest of all kimonos. You are the beauty of Japan. You are its [music] new life, bridging the old. May peace and happiness be yours.