Sew Easy #25, How to Make Pockets

so cookies so i like to make pockets especially patch  pockets they're easy and there's some unique details that make all the difference between just  another pocket and a pocket you can be proud of have you ever seen a pocket like this at first  glance it looks like it's a neatly made pocket but how will it look after it's been worn and  washed many times let's examine it what about these raw edges just inside the top of the  pocket they don't need to be there of course this pocket was stitched and then back stitched  to tack but don't most pockets need reinforcement at this point to keep them from ripping out this back stitching has only put  all the strain along one thread edges that peep out at the lower  part of the pocket are unsightly it's easy enough to criticize  now what can we do about it i'm going to put on two types of patch pockets for  you so i can cover most of the problems that might come up for you the first one will be a simple  patch pocket with a hem top and rounding bottom before you remove the pattern from  the patch pocket be sure to check that the fold line has been  transferred to the pocket the first step is to fold under a fourth of  an inch at the top of the pocket and press it then machine stitch that fold down you would  use matching thread but i'm using black so that you'll be able to  follow my stitching lines then fold the top of the pocket back to the  right side right along that fold line and pin it i'm going to stitch right on the seam line so the edge of the pocket will be up  against the guide start by back stitching when you get to the bottom  of the hem continue on around this raw stitching will help give you a  smooth curve at the bottom of your pocket when you get back up to the hem stitch right  on over it and then back stitch at the end now we're ready to trim and press if we turn the hem without trimming off these  seams you would have bulky corners that would be unsightly be slow drying and hard to iron so  we start by cutting the corners off diagonally and then trimming off the seam here in the  hem to found in about eighth of an inch then trim the rest of the seam off  so just about half its original width remove a little more bulk by  cutting out wedges around the curve now we're ready to turn the hem to the wrong side we'll want good square corners  and you can use your scissors if you'll use them gently  and lift those corners out now we're ready to press that flat we want to press the rest of these  edges back as you do pull the stitching slightly to the top side so when you're  finished it will show all the way around now we're ready to put the pocket onto the dress the place for the pocket is marked  with carbon on the wrong side and since i want the marking on the right  side i'll transfer it through with basting basting is one of the most accurate  ways to mark the place for your pocket however very careful you could  transfer this through with pins and now we'll pin our pocket in place before i put that pocket on i'd like to show  you just how i'm going to stitch it i'll start stitching here and stitch up a few stitches  then across this important angle turn the pocket around and stitch all the way around the pocket  back up to the top across this angle and down in order to get both angles  exactly like count the stitches and then sew the rest the way around the pocket you might be interested to know that tests  have proven that this diagonal stitching at the top of the pocket is the most durable since it  crosses both the lengthwise and crosswise threads encounter stitches across the angle and these threads should be  pulled through to the wrong side and tie since the raw edges were turned up into  the hem no raw edges can possibly show at the top of your pocket this finishes the  pocket with a rounded bottom and hem top and now let's take a quick look at a pocket with  square corners and a flap square corners are easy to make if you fold and trim them properly  let me use a paper to show you the method i use here is the side fold and here is the  bottom fold which have been pressed in on your fabric lay a triangle across the corner so  that the full lines are right back on themselves trim that corner off about an eighth  of an inch beyond the fold line then you'll have a smooth corner the flap is made like an elongated hem and stitching it on use the same angular stitching  at the top corners up under the flap you'll notice that the pockets were the first step on the  skirt unit and next time i'll complete the skirt you