Sew Easy #13, How to Attach Your Collar

Today were going to attach the collar. I have the shoulder seams joined, but not the underarm seams, so the blouse can remain flat and easy to work on, the underside of the collar goes down on the right side of the blouse, which is the wrong side or the underside of the collar. You remember that we pressed the seam to the one side in order to keep it from showing this demonstration color or show that more clearly. So the side of the collar for the seam shows is the under color. This demonstration color also shows these layered edges. That appearance is to be expected because the way we press the seams of the collar, you might find it difficult to keep track of this print color that was made to go with the dress. So I'll change to a solid color just to help the demonstration put the center back together, matching these little nicks that we put in before we remove the pattern. Then when we have these matched, just lift the upper color and then the interfacing and the under collar to the garment. Next, match the matches and pin. And then bring the finished edge of the collar to the point indicated. Your pattern will tell you where that is, and you'll find that often at the center front, as this one is, and that's already marked with basting all this in place and then tack up there probably won't to be held in exactly the right place. Repeat this on the other end, because you want both sides your to look exactly alike. We're ready to join the rest of the collar to the next line. And as you look at it here, it looks as if the collar is much too big for the neckline, but it will fit when we met, same to same line. And we'll do this by clipping the same of the neckline at the neckline down to our face stitching. You wouldn't dare do this unless you had stay stitched near the same line. Now I think you can see why we left that shoulder seam open beyond the seam line for a serve just as another clip. And now the neckline line, the collar, so we'll lift the top of the collar all the way and match the seam to the interfacing and under the collar, be careful to keep all the edges together. It was this from shoulder seem to shoulder seam across the back and be sure you get the edges right up against the seam guide so that your stitching will be on the same line. Remove the pins. And then pin the rest the collar down to the garment and this time we'll pin the entire collar, including the upper collar. This section will be stitched down as we stitch on the facing, and here's another place where we need to clip down to the stay stitching line for the next to fit. Put the facing on the right side of the front, the blouse with the interfacing side up, matched the notches and pin enough times to keep the edges from slipping. Then up here, the neckline keeps the edges together, and you'll notice that we're pinning the facing and the collar and the neck edge together. And that the end of our facing comes to the shoulder seam of our blouse and it looks as if we have covered up the collar completely. Now, you could go on over to the other side and pin the other facing in place. But I'm going on on this side and show you how it goes from start to finish. Since this edge has been clipped up to the same line, we cannot treat it as a straight seam and to on the edge of your facing starts touching about a fourth of an inch from the edge and back stitch just to the edge of the face. And then did you see? After I finished the stitching and shown you something about trimming the scene, I'll exchange just for one that has both the faces attached. But I can finish showing you about catching a collar in this demonstration. Now, before we're ready to turn this, we want to get rid of all the book in the seam and we'll do that by layering the trim off the interfacing all the way down to the stitching line. And then trim these other layers off. A little wider. And you'll want to get the interfacing out. Did I cut it all the way down to the same line, even with up inside the seam like this? I get this other blouse and let you see the other points which have been trimmed here at the corner, cut straight across the neck edge and the rest of the seams have been trimmed and pressed open. Then we turn the facing to the backside. When you have it turned it as you did, your collar rolling the same slightly to the back side. This is only the back edge which is still open clip at this point, clip up to that last stitch right along the edge of the facing. And this is how we get rid of a bulk trim off of all the seam about a fourth of an inch. Then trim the inter facing off down to the stitching line. And then all that's left we'll press up and under. Then turn the upper collar over the scene, remember, the upper collar is going to roll, so fold your collar to give just a little extra allowance for that roll press, then after you have either machine stitched or put it down by hand, your finished collar will look like this.