A/V Geeks Haircut

foreign americans at work performing a service on which every man woman and child depends barbers and beauticians important people in the lives of well-groomed and attractive women for appearance sake these workers are a necessary part of our lives for more than 6 000 years the art of cutting hair has been practiced as a craft in ancient egypt barbers trimmed the square cut beards of the pharaohs [Music] today they care for the square cuts on top of the head the modern mirrored barbershop of today is quite different from the tonsorial parlor of 50 years ago but the barber's work remains the same an ever-changing part of his job is reassuring youngsters who while they may not object violently are still a bit hesitant about a haircut under the striped barber cloth any customer becomes wrapped in some of the tradition that has surrounded barbers and their shops since the time of plato in the days of ancient greece [Music] the first barbering clubs were formed where men would meet to discuss the topics of the day while having their hair trimmed and beards curled today's barber is still an advisor or patient listener to affairs in the lives of his customers to women a beauty salon is more than a feminine barber shop it is a place where they may be transformed from commonplace to outstanding where natural beauty is developed and accentuated [Music] often a woman's attractiveness begins in the hands of a hair stylist an artist who can instantly create an individualistic quaker and communicate the exact details to an assistant [Music] hairdressers learn by doing following the instructions of the stylist who may be guided by the season the shape of the head or features of the face an entirely different treatment may be dictated to satisfy the mood of his customer from courts of royalty the beautician has become an important part of everyday american life just as a beautician learns the craft on the job a barber begins as an apprentice in an established shop in times past a young man learned how and went to work now in all but a few states he must be schooled and examined before he can be licensed as an apprentice and then as a journeyman barber eventually he may open his own shop where he might begin training licensed apprentices himself the transformation that can take place in a young girl's appearance simply by changing the style of her hair is deftly accomplished in the hands of an experienced beautician that little girl look can be replaced by sophistication with quick strokes of scissors and comb mother and daughter visits to the beauty shop are becoming as regular as the traditional partnership of father and son at the barber shop this is an exclusive men's world where women do not go even though the first women's haircuts were performed there before beauty shops were opened many women average two hours a week in a beauty salon the care given their crowning glory depends on how much time they can give it and the skill of the beauty operator since 1945 an increasing number of men have chosen the beautification of womankind as a career their customers have confidence in their judgment because after all who is more appreciative of beautiful women than a man the way to beauty may not be the most attractive but the admiring glasses that result are worth it [Music] the union shop sign is a symbol of good barbering today just as many shelves of personalized shaving mugs indicated it in the gay nineties with the passing of the shaving mug and mustache wax went another of barbering's most prized accomplishments the harmony of the barbershop quartet a barber shop is a combination of many things old and new at one time a man visited a barber shop as much to relax as to have his hair attended now modern women go to the beauty shop with the same objective special facial treatments bring to milady's continents a look of health and youth a manicurist shapes and polishes her nails to accentuate the length and gracefulness of long tapering fingers [Music] knowledge of skin care and facial structure is something a beautician learns as an apprentice her fingers are the tools with which she always works the direction in which they move the rhythm of the massage perform another kind of beauty magic a woman's hands are as important to her as her face hair and clothing if she is to feel well dressed and at ease men are no more without vanity than women as members of a civilized society we are concerned with our appearance before others in earliest civilizations the barber has been an integral part while we're not too sensitive to changing fashion and style it was not always so men once wore wigs and elaborate haircuts that required more hours to prepare than many women spend before their mirrors today the convenient shortcuts men now wear require less time but father and barber begin early to train a youngster's hair to the shape it will take as he grows [Music] because women can wear their hair very long or short or anywhere in between they may present an endless variety of styles for their admirers of course once long hair has been cut short only time can change it back but in the meantime a clever stylist can change its shape to emphasize features to change the entire appearance of a customer cutting hair to fit a specific personality is what makes the difference between a hair cutter and an artist [Music] [Applause] it is amazing how happy a boy can look after a haircut especially as soon as he steps down from the barber chair to most of us when we are young haircuts seem pretty useless since the hair will always just grow back again for some of us anyway but when you're on your way to meet your best girl it's worth all the trouble [Music] of course one of the things a man almost always forgets is that it takes longer for one woman to finish in a beauty shop than it takes for two men to get their hair cut by one barber [Music] waiting for a woman to leave a beauty salon has probably contributed as much humor and frustration to civilization as any other single human endeavor but there really is a reason for the waiting every part of beauty care must be performed slowly and with attention to detail it is really to the beautician's credit that it takes as little time as it does to cut wash set dry and calm a woman's hair the curls swirls and waves that constitute a hairdo require skill in the hands of the hairdresser and patience on the part of the customer [Music] when the girls finally appear before their men all the time spent is forgotten if attractive people are the leaders of society then barbers and beauticians are the moulders of leaders [Music] to explain all the mysteries surrounding a woman's ability to make herself beautiful would be impossible not even all the secrets of what goes on in a beauty salon are obvious to an outsider a beautician trained in all the aspects of beauty culture from washington waving including facials manicures and cosmetology knows more than words can tell the proper use of hands and equipment the way to roll a curler is something not always expressible in words [Music] it is enough that we are able to enjoy the work of the beauty salons wherever we turn [Music] all over america there are barbers and beauticians whose aim in life is one of service to the appearance of mankind these are people whose craft dates back to the beginnings of civilized society whose union stems from the middle ages when barbers and surgeons were one today they are members of the barbers hairdressers cosmetologists and proprietors union of the afl-cio americans at work for you americans at work presented as a public service by the afl-cio next week another interesting story of americans at work americans whose skill and effort help keep our country great and strong [Music] i'm raymond massey hey everybody i'm skip alzheimer av geeks and uh yeah so we just watched a film called the americans at work barbers let me rewind this [Music] there it is all right sorry anyways um so i'm getting a haircut today because i need one and so i figured i would show films about haircuts um because i have i have a couple so um thanks for joining us uh we try to do this every friday uh and then we do like a bigger event like a two-hour event uh the next one is i'll get the date for that but it's going to be about feet because i have a lot of great films about feet so this film was made by the mer the afl-cio norwood studios did it norwood studios they were a industrial educational filmmaker who made a lot of stuff for the government um and then also for lobbying groups like the afl-cio and uh so they have a whole series of of different films for different vocations and this could be a just a general information film that they would send out to uh the public um this one actually had i kind of stopped it but it had a psa for about health uh quackery uh warning about health fraud devices uh so this was obviously shown on television probably in the wee morning um but this could also be shown for people that are considering different types of locations uh or as an argument for um unionizing a given uh field in a area that they don't have unions so um it's great it's um wonderfully sexist as my uh in uh assistant sarah mentioned some of the narration about what was it that stuck with you the uh it was um the unspoken words of the hair stylist or something like that some weird esoteric thing yeah and you said maybe if a woman narrated it would be you'd have a vocabulary or something [Music] this next film is made for barbers and stylists was potentially shown in trade schools where they taught cosmetology or uh beauty beauty schools or barber schools this was an ebay fine as you can see i'm actually threading up a telecity which i actually have hooked up to a digitizing box which is hooked up to the computer which is then broadcast across the internet um so this film is called modern cutting style modern style cutting technique so we get to learn about modern style cutting techniques so enjoy this wow [Music] the first step toward a professional haircut is to have your implements in good repair and in a sanitary condition at all times the yoyot clamp can be used very successfully for parting blocking and holding the hair for wet hair shaping the razor with a guard is preferred the following hand positions will help you develop skill and accuracy the exposed blade should be directed away from you during tapering so that the hair strand goes over the cutting blade before coming in contact with the guard the various hand positions determine the amount of taper you may achieve for different styling effects the changing of your blade frequently is very important this can be done rapidly and makes the hair shaping much easier your scissor has one movable blade which is on the thumb side the hand should be stationary at all times with only the thumb moving you will note on the thinning shear there is one serrated blade and one movable blade here again the holding of the instrument is very important we control it while combing the hair at the same time for this tailored style we start with our guide on the nape line we work from the center toward the right cleaning up the neckline as we go now this is very important keep the shear flat to the neck so that you don't injure your patron graduate your comb upward your comb is your guide work always with your shear over your comb repeatedly checking your guideline you will note how the hair is contoured upward bringing the hair back to the base of the comb bring the guide up to the beginning of the earlobe for this tailored neckline if you desire a little longer neckline depending on the patient's neck proportion we can use a little additional length now use an ethylating movement around the ear this would give you softness for the forward movement which is going to be used with this tailored style comb the hair downward and check it after you have given the proper taper constantly work your guidelines to achieve smoothness and perfection in the gradation work from the center to the left here again we go up approximately to the earlobe we must not get too high behind the ear keep it approximately to the earlobe some necklines require slightly higher movements such as does our model today with our shorter neck many times we will leave it lower depending on the style or length of the neckline graduate the hair up again bringing it back into the base of the comb we will demonstrate this with a lighter comb so that you can actually see the hair come back into the base of the comb here you will note the hair as it falls to the base now this is very important to ensure that you have proper blending on the neckline without any coarse abruptness to the hair feather the hair at the nape so that you eliminate a heavy line now graduating upward hold the hair out erect from the scalp hold the hair high bringing the hair to the base of the comb and cutting with a blunt movement check your guideline again to make sure you have the guide in the proper contour line with the shape of the head let your top sections down next and blend those with your guideline with an ethylating movement a slithering movement with the shears so that you have quite an extensive taper on the ends here again you can hold the hair erect and cut against the base of the comb now this tapers down to the neckline giving a softness to the nape with no bluntness or heaviness at the nape line itself graduate upwards letting one section down at a time now with tapering graduating and fitting the hair down close to the neckline on the sides we use a diagonal parting holding the hair taut combing it forward and using a slight slithering movement to remove the desired amount of hair when the hair is quite curly it is helpful to dampen the hair to remove some of the curl this will straighten the hair so that you we can check the length of the hair properly and give us a better view of our actual hair cutting results of course this should be done only prior to the final cutting a little bit of cutting can be done with your shear after the hair has been dampened but generally speaking we prefer to do our wet hair cutting with a razor rather than with a scissor however we can remove some irregularities which we may have missed with our razor by the use of the shear with the bang arrangement comb the hair down here again using quite an extensive slithering movement so the hair will be soft and casual over the forehead without too much heaviness comb the hair into position each time to make sure your length is proper comb the haircut thoroughly when you were through directing the hair in the lines of the desired style the hair should be groomed thoroughly before the patron leaves if she does not desire a shampoo and wave now this is very important never let your patron leave the salon without having her hair comb neatly and being well groomed if our patron were not to have a shampoo and set and comb out we would dress her hair similar to this we did give her a set and a comb out now it was quick and easy from the tailored style cut so all right so we'll watch this in reverse um this beautiful haircut taking place um it's funny so i there's a barber that i like using at a local place a local chain called arrow in raleigh and uh i was talking to my barber at the time steve and he was talking he was asking me what i what i did and i talked about like collecting old films and he's like oh man there's this film that i saw when i was a kid um it really scared the hell out of me um it's called dead is dead and i was like oh yeah i've got dead is dead so i gave him a copy of it i had on dvd uh that i'd made from a film print that i had and uh he gave me a free haircut but uh yes he watched it and was reminded how traumatized he was about it so um yeah films reach all sorts of people and things and uh there's been some chatter on the youtube uh site about how a lot of people who've been uploading these films have been disappearing on youtube and unfortunately uh it is a constant struggle uh with youtube um mostly because uh there's all these content id robots who go out and they look for content for their approved folks people who pay or who have some sort of deal with the devil with youtube and so basically anytime they upload something to look for content through the rest of the of the site and what happens is a lot of films that are using or a lot of current tv shows or films or whatever that are using old stock footage i get flagged and sometimes i get just a message saying like oh uh this is somebody else's copyright um don't worry about it but yesterday i got one that said hey bbc claims that they own uh apollo 11 moon landing footage and we've blocked they've blocked it from anybody from seeing it and so i had to go through the rigmarole and the paperwork online to complain and say no bbc does not own the apollo 11 footage that's actually that footage was made by nasa and it belongs to the american people and you can't this is in public domain so i i have to do that every week i could potentially do it every day because i also get a lot of claims for uh background music or production music um which those are kind of legit i think i don't know i think somebody made some nefarious deals to license or to own all the background music from the 50s 60s and 70s and all these productions use it like you'll hear similar background music and similar films and so somebody's making money off advertising from that very lucrative somebody was very smart damn them um anyway so i'm fighting a good fight i'm trying to be up here trying to be online showing as much stuff as i can until the youtube fbi comes and breaks down my door and they put me into youtube jail um because that's what it's all about it's getting this material and making it available to the public so uh this next film uh will probably also bring a some sort of people on youtube might not see this or this might be taken down so download it as soon as you can this is uh our favorite animated bear um british animated bear um getting or giving a haircut is called too much off the top enjoy so oh paddington all right got one more film and uh i know some of you have been asking me if i have any footage of the revolutionary war airports and i'm sorry i do not so stop asking they didn't have motion picture film back there so you know stop asking uh let's see so one more film uh so next event is it's the sunday the 14th well i had it set up here um i'm not sure what day it's so the the foot event is the 14th uh which i believe is a sunday at 8 o'clock and uh we'll show watch a bunch of films about feet and toes um and most of them won't be uh and they won't be gross they won't be like foot surgery or anything like that um it'll be films that um you you'll be amazed that exists okay one last film and this one requires a little bit of prep it's on a core most of the films that i show are on reels which are pretty meant to be put on a projector and shown of course this is a lighter a little bit better on the film because of the the reels can bend and they can rust and warp uh so this is a little bit better but the thing is it requires special um handling so i have to put on this special um thing on this tell us any thing i'm sure there's a german word for it and then there's this kind of goes on there um and what you would use if you were going to show this on a projector is i'd put on the split reel um we don't put a split wheel on it just tell us any because it acts weird with the tension but this is tails out man okay this is another ebay purchase ebay is magical because it has things that you don't know you know existed so you have to do very general searches to see what's out in the world this is probably an ad slash infomercial dish thing it's lit home permanence so how to give a permanent and home which is not what i'm gonna get i'm just gonna get a regular haircut so here we go hi i'm loretta dons and today we have a treat in store for you a lesson in hair styling by that famous new york hair stylist julius caruso you know when you go to julius's salon to have your hair done you don't know who's going to be under the next dryer it might be a hollywood celebrity a broadway star a socialite or maybe even a duchess or two but even if you never get to a salon you can still have the benefit of his famous advice because julius is the hair styling consultant for one of the largest manufacturers of home permanence lilt the little instruction booklet you know that comes along with every push button home permanent waving kit that's julius's work it's right from his collection and now let's meet him julius caruso hello loretta hi it's a pleasure to have you with us thank you it's nice being here well what are you going to talk to us about today well we're going to go into three areas today one is the roller arrangement the brush out and the permanent underneath i see well i also see that you have our gal here set up with rollers is that where we start yes um you'll notice here i'm using three size rollers uh the first size roller is what i call a medium size roller which i use along the hairline then i increase the diameter of the roller as i go into the head third size roller i call a stove pipe is enormous in size the largest you can possibly get i use at the crown of the head then i use pin curls around the cheeks and around the base of the neck and with this you get a nice lifting glossy line that hugs the face of the neck well what about the placement of rollers well that's very easily done by going to any newsstand and there are many magazines that show you ruler arrangements and how to brush out here and i also have a booklet i just put out that's in every package of a new home permit but i think most important of all is how you pick up the hair to put a roller and a head i can show you very easily on your head if you don't all right all righty instead of just taking the hair and straight parting it and putting the hair on the ruler like so i zigzag the hair out this is what i mean by zig zagging see i make a jagged line and then i put the hair on the roller and when you comb this out you don't see all the little separations between the hair well what about brush out techniques well brushing out is a very very important factor in hairstyling after you go through the great effort of placing curls in properly and and rollers then you must vigorously brush through a head of hair so that the hair doesn't show any sort of separations and vigorously doesn't hurt the hair at all no as a matter of fact this makes the hair flow into one another oh well i've heard you talk about back combing and back brushing uh would you tell us about them and that's the difference yes back brushing is to get certain effects uh this is what i call back brushing then i very gently take the brush over the top surface and it doesn't allow the hair to stand up quite as high as it does with back combing backcombing makes you create higher fashion crawfures that will practically you can do most anything with it well now let's talk a little bit about the permanent why do we need one well the reasons for a perm thought to give you a hair every hairstyle body control and it helps maintain any line that you decide to put in oh i see well now what are the basic features of a permanent what are the basic important things well first of all i think you must first know what kind of a style you want and it must be cut for this hairstyle secondly uh shampoo the hair quite thoroughly to get all the natural oils out and third i think a wonderful hint is for people that take a little bit longer to wrap a permanent wave at home to pat the ends with a little olive oil or castor oil any kind of kitchen oil to keep the ends from getting too curly it sounds like we're about ready for our permanent tell me is there any difference between a home permanent and a salon permanent actually no it's the hands that do it uh speaking of hands now are there any special little hints you can give us about winding the curls yes there's one very good hint when you pick up the hair and after it's been saturated don't pinch the hair together just keep it spread as the comb spreads it out and very gently without tugging place that curl down well doesn't that make the curl looser no the timing is what determines whether it's going to be a tight or loose curl oh well what do you mean by a body girl well i made a test curl here i'd like to show you did this a few minutes ago and when you open up a curl and you kick it back if it's three quarters of an inch and a break it's a loose curl if it's a half inch that's a body curl and if it's a quarter of an inch break that's a tight curl one last question how permanent is a permanent well a permit is a permit as long as it's on your head when you cut it off it lands on the floor it's no longer apparent i see well thank you so much julius for taking some of the mystery out of hairstyling this has been julius caruso stylist for the broadway and hollywood stars and high society and special consultant for lilt home permanence hi um yeah so there you go it's how you give yourself a little home permanent somebody pointed out on one of the comments how stinky lilt was i mean it was basically melting your hair in a certain shape um i i have a i think i have a commercial for like dippity-do uh which also kind of does weird it's like a weird fixative thing and i think i also have a hair relaxing african-american hair relaxing like commercial somewhere it's buried in a giant reel of commercials so i wouldn't be able to pull it out at this point but um thanks everybody for tuning in if you like what you saw uh please visit us at avgeeks.com um patreon is a place to donate i've also added some other ways you can donate via paypal or venmo or cash app if you're interested in that let me know and i can put that in the comments your donations help us uh purchase more films online uh and buy things like uh white tape which is uh invaluable white artist tape which we use to uh for labeling for taping things down um it's a wonderful it's like the duct tape in the world but this is white artist tape it's really quite something i hope everybody who celebrates the fourth had a good fourth um i could have just as easily done a patriotic show but i don't know we've done those and what's interesting is one of the films that i uh put out the world almost a decade ago 200 has been getting a lot of sharing on social media and i feel good because it's it's my copy so vincent collins 200 look for it it's it's a crazy psychedelic um bicentennial film that is really quite over the top you can see it on this uh youtube channel uh or look it up on internet archive anyways thanks guys have a good weekend and we'll see you soon bye