The Eiseman Tradition (Apparel Merchandising Series)

Florence iseman Incorporated is a Milwaukee based manufacturer of better children's wear What began as gifts of little girls dresses to special friends? Designed and soand by Florence Iseman has evolved into a business with national and international distribution Since its beginning 40 years ago the Iseman name has become synonymous with superior quality and striking design As a creative and talented dressmaker, Florence Iseman recognized a need for better design and quality in children's wear She felt that the typical ruffles and lace design of the time had little imagination, and she wanted to produce something different One of her keys to success and what ultimately has become her trademark has been elegantly simple structural design carefully executed in fine fabric Unique and whimsical appliques tastefully done as well as imported laces and embroideries are also recognizable features of many heisman garments In the 1950s the business truly became a family enterprise when sons Lawrence and Robert joined the firm During the next two decades Florence iseman incorporated tested new markets expanded its product line and Acquired a global perspective through annual trips to Europe to buy fabrics and observe European fashions today Robert and Lawrence iseman managed the business Florence iseman was now in her 80s serves in an advisory capacity Primarily in the design area where she still has the last word Iseman designs often begin with an idea inspired by carefully selected fabric and trims it often takes several working sketches or croakies and a lot of manipulating and experimenting before the right combination of structural design fabric and trim begins to emerge in the designers mind The designer may begin by experimenting with the fabric at iseman x' draping is a very important design tool structural details of a design are worked out on a three dimensional body form in the fashion fabric working on the body form helps the designer and making judgments about garment proportions such as the yoke placement and width and depth of the neckline and armhole Working with the fashion fabric is essential in this design because it enables the designer to see the immediate effect of the stripe and combined in a vertical and horizontal position The weight and stiffness of the fabric affect decisions about the amount of flair added at the side scenes The designer checks the hem placement to ensure it's appropriately located in relation to the diagonal yoke line When the designer is satisfied with the basic structural design she experiments with the addition and placement of trims use and placement of these appliques are critical to the style and the Aesthetic appeal of the garment and the care and attention given to these design components exemplify the iseman tradition Once the designer is satisfied with the placement trims are secured and the design sheet prepared The specifications on the design sheet include a sketch of the front and back views fabric swatches and specific details and instructions that the designer considers important The completed drape accompanied by the design sheet is then sent to the pattern room Often the same fabric is used in several different garments with slight variations in detail and silhouette Designs are varied for the brother-sister look and for differences in size and body proportions And this adds dimension and versatility to the line The sample pattern maker uses the designers drape and the design sheet to create the first pattern The sample sower follows the specifications from the design sheet and makes up the first garment of each style When the sample is approved it becomes the prototype Taken by sales representatives to retailers to determine whether demand justifies mass production If enough orders are placed the sample garment is used as the guide in developing the production pattern Special details such as these pleats are worked out on pattern paper before the basic block is applied Sewing methods are discussed and slight changes may be made to thank the garment more producible Once the production pattern is factory tested and perfected. It's sent to the computer room for grading and making the marker At Iceland pattern information is fed into the computer by using a digitizer the equipment consists of the digitizer table Which there is a free moving cursor with communication buttons keyboards and command boxes? The cursor is used to enter all pattern data and piece numbers size ranges piece perimeters notches internal points grade points and special grade instructions An interactive graphic display terminal equipped with a screen and keyboard serves as the primary workstation But once the data are fed into the computer the operator can command and view the data store Pieces are verified and changes made for grading or marker making Graded pattern pieces can be nested for study and verification In marker making the computer uses the stylus pen and tablet to place and arrange the pattern pieces on the screen As the marker is developed on a terminal Pieces can be moved and rearranged for maximum utilization of fabric before a hard copy is made The plotter prints out the actual full-size marker with pattern placements and fabric match lines just as they appeared on the screen the plotter draws each pattern piece and labels it for immediate identification in cutting and bundling When needed fabric match points are also included for proper alignment and spreading The credit marker is the blueprint for a cutting room? At Florence iseman correct placement of fabric design is very important The stripes of the fabric are built into the design of the garment. They're centered and front and back and Aligned with waist bands and collar ends pocket to produce the most appealing effect Fabric swatches are superimposed on the marker to ensure accurate interpretations and placement in spreading The next step is fabric spreading or laying out the fabric and lengths predetermined by the cutting order and marker Spreading machines can either be stationary or traveling What we see here is a portable stationery spreader Which is best suited for short spreads or spreads with few flies? This particular fabric is a lycra and nylon swimsuit fabric, which has a pronounced diagonal stripe? To meet quality specifications must be spread face-up One way in order that the stripes run the same direction on each ply Extra care is needed when spreading this fabric because of its stretch in hand It's being spread manually to avoid distortion and excess tension Two spreaders unwind the cloth align each ply and smooth the surface Before the automatic cutting device severs the fabric across the width The cutting device is a rotary blade mounted on a trolley or a movable belt Which the operator engages after the ply is spread? This is an electronically operated traveling spreader The fabric is positioned at the end of the lay and each ply aligned before cutting from the bolt This fabric is being spread faced one way and with varied ply lights to correspond with cutting orders for specific sizes This bread is being cuffed with a portable straight knife machine it's imperative that the knife followed the exact lines on the marker and maintain a 90-degree pitch to the spread in order to ensure uniformity from top fly to the bottom fly The knife must be slowly propelled into the spread in order to prevent bunching ahead of the blade Which would result in inaccuracy and poor cutting quality? Once the spread is cut the cutter marks each block as indicated on the marker Extreme care must be taken so that the notches are accurate and that they correct depth Die-cutting is used for the many varied and intricate appliques that are unique to florence iseman designs Die-cutting is consistent and accurate It's the only way to achieve perfection and uniformity of small pieces such as those for appliques Die-cutting is a labor-intensive process Because the die must be repositioned by the operator for each cut Also the number of plies that can be cut at one time is limited by the depth of the dive Dyes are reusable and every die made is catalogued for future use Any design can be used in new? Combinations color and fabrics and placement and iseman entire walls are covered with dyes During the bundling operation pieces are inspected sorted grouped wrapped and ticketed for the sewing floor as the bundles come from the cutting area They're checked to make sure that the block is consistent in size and marking as a quality control measure bundlers will often spot check Make sure that pieces at the top of the block are the same size as those in the middle and the bottom of the stack Markings are also checked to make sure that they're visible correctly placed and at a consistent depth If the fabric tends to close up easily or if a series of operations would be performed before the garment is applicated bundlers remark the drill holes with a washout pencil And this is an additional step made by Florence Iseman to assure a high level of quality and the construction of the garment The sewing floor at Iceman's is equipped primarily with basic lock stitch and chain stitch machines And these are very versatile can be used to perform a variety of functions This type of equipment is necessary to accommodate the fashion influence a great variety in the styling that they use Applying appliques and trims is an important part of the sub assembly process Huysmans Appliques are the dress-up part of Iceman's designs are used on approximately sixty to eighty percent of their garments They may be totally stitched down or have loose pearled edges appliques provide both continuity and variety to the line The operators apply the appliques using previously marked drill holes that show the exact placement of each part Each segment is sewn separately with matching thread and in a specific order to produce the desired effect Notice the decorative and functional use of applique on this swimsuit The shoulder strap is a continuation of the fabric stripe that creates the stem of the flower The trim on a cover-up is also dual purpose it creates a flower stem, and it binds the edge Various attachments are used to improve the efficiency and speed of these machines They exist by folding and guiding and positioning the work for the operator This folder is being used to set the bias trim on a sailor collar It positions to trim and folds it by turning in both raw edges before sewing them down with a double needle The guide at the right of the needle on this machine Helps the operator keep the stitching a specified distance from the edge of the fabric Notice the operator chaining off as she sews each collar section This is much more efficient than sewing and stacking each piece separately The trim on this swimsuit was applied in a similar manner as that on a collar Except that it was done on a double needle chain stitch machine The chain stitch allows more stretch it is less likely to break on a stretchy fabric that is subject to a lot of stress The operator working on its lavender and white stripe dress is performing two separate operations to eliminate excessive handling In the first process the operator is folding and stitching a center zipper application The ends of the zipper tape have been previously caught in the neckline seam So that the operator is simply folding the fabric along a stripe and stitching it to the zipper Notice the precise folding and stitching along a specific strike The machine being used is a computerized single needle lock stitch It has an electronic control unit which allows the operator to set the machine to perform a number of different functions that have been programmed into the computer the Second process this operator is performing is setting lifts or supports for the puff sleeve This adds hanger appeal and it helps the sleeve to retain the full finished fashion look that is desired Pressing in process plays a very important part in the production of quality garments it produces flatter seams sharper edges and greater accuracy during the assembly process Notice the varied types of pressing being donut Iseman Some operators are applying fusible interfacing to small specific areas to give added reinforcement While others are creasing Helms for increased accuracy and sewing Seams are also being pressed open for a flatter smoother appearance The equipment in this area is versatile and adapts well for many functions Notice the suspended irons that are carefully positioned to make the work less tiring and more efficient Final pressing and inspection are the last steps in the quality control process before the garments are ready for market The Kuchar line at Iseman is a recent development Begun in response to the demand from a very specialized and limited target market in this case upper end specialty retailers special features incorporated to achieve this picture quality include the use of imported fabrics laces trims and hand-sewn finishing details And work on this silk shantung dress is evident on the trim hem lining and label Quality begins with the conception of the garment and is incorporated into all components in stages of production from design to consumer use every manufacturer must define Establish the type and level of quality needed in order to satisfy the target market The classic style and simplicity of iseman designs show an unusually perceptive understanding of children and their needs Styles are developed to fit the changing body proportions of the growing child They allow freedom of movement and ample room to grow Classic designs and superior quality level have been a hallmark of the iseman tradition throughout its 40-year history